Saturday, December 6, 2008

My best attempt at being Anthony Bourdain (forgive me Tony)

Today's istallment will be solely on the food of SE Asia (thanks Chas).
My cooking class I took in Luang Prabang really introduced me to what the flavor combinations are here in Lao.
The most commons spices used in Lao are kefir lime leaves, basil (2 kinds), fish sauce, garlic, spring oninons, galanga. ginger, lime, chilis,coriander, fried onions, MSG(!), and sugar. I will be happy to tell you what I learned and how to use all of these ingredients when I get back home.
To keep things easy we will go in order of what you eat and when during the day.
Breakfast
There are plenty of options here and with the French influence in SE Asia some are quite good like bagettes and decent coffee but what do the locals have?
Noodle Soup. It's sort of like Viet Namese pho but different and called feu. "Same same but different" as they say here. It is the perfect meal early in the day: light, filling, full of flavor,highly energizing, easy to digest, does not slow you down and it makes bacon and eggs seem so boring. I love to sit down on these plastic chairs as some sidewalk noodle shop and eat with the locals who are all eating noodle soup. Ok, I'll admit it. I am completely, totally,unashamedly, and throughly addicted to this stuff for breakfast. I think I have had eggs once since being in Asia and the rest of the time it's noodle soup.
Oh yea, the cost for a huge-steamy-bowl-almost-more-than-you-can-finish- 90 cents.

Lunch
Lunch can really vary from where you are in the country. Options include noodle soup again (sure, I'll have another, this time with duck, please) to awesome sandwiches from street side vendors again on bagettes with mayo, tomato, cucumber,onion and your choice of meats or omelet. Good stuff and great for travel on a motorcycle. Get one in the morning eat it along the way. Fried rice and fried noodles with veggies, egg, chicken, or beef are popular and very good. Cost on these items about $1.50.
I should also mention that here in Laos sticky rice is really the most eaten item as it is served with most dishes.

Snacks
The BEST fruit shakes on earth are here in Laos. Great fruit overall with coconuts, mangos, pineapple, banana, dragon fruit mixed in anyway you want chilled with ice then blended. ADDICTING TOO! 50 cents.
The streetside foods are really great. Fresh and hot so I think reasonably safe to eat. Chicken sticks are really one of my favorites. The Lao chickens are skinny and scrawny and really tasty. Cost $1
The locals like these baby dried squid, thrown on a grill for a few minutes to soften and then eaten. I tried one- a bit chewy for me.

Dinner
Wow the options are endless. Great bar b que chicken, pork, fish stuffed with lemongrass then packed with sea salt and grilled on an open fire. OK I'll have two of those, please.
Actually, the fish, which is freshwater here in this land-locked country is maybe one of the best dishes I have ever eaten. Most people who have this also agree. Cost of the fish $2-3 each.
Western meals are offered in the bigger towns but I am avoiding them. You know when in Lao do as the Laotians do. The worst meal I had, in fact, was a plate of speghetti that tasted like noodles with ketchup. So much to for going western here in the east. There are some highly rated restaurants in the bigger towns serving high end cuisine but I am choosing to eat more locally most of my meals.
OK. I will admit it. I had one hamburger. And it was great! OK, Got that off my chest...phew.
Out in the off-road back country away from the main roads the foods get pretty simple. Mainly, sticky rice with a delicious dipping sauce and not much more. Meats are available but I think those are for special occasions.

Weird shit

Ok now comes the fun stuff. Weirdest things I have eaten:
Fried worms
Bar B Qued Sparrow (tastes like canary)
Bar b qued water buffalo skin(tastes like bacon with the consistency of shoe leather)
Water Buffalo soup with chunks of wood that when you eat the outer bark it tastes good and makes your lips go numb

Things I have seen but not eaten nor will ever eat thank you very much (sorry Bizarre Foods guy on cable)
Bar b qued Rats UDATE : Ok I ate BBQ'd rat in a soup. Hmmmm... a little weird.
Fried rats
Bar b qued Bats
Possum
moles
hamsters skinned and ready for the barby
Bags of cow blood and cow bile ( now really, what do you do with cow bile?)

The food here in Laos is much better than I was lead to believe. Thai food still dominates in flavor combinations and and overall creativity. But the Lao food is more subtle and relies on the freshness of the ingredients without trying to overpower with too many nuances of flavor. I love Thai food but I am really appreciating Lao food now too. And that fish stuffed with lemongrass ranks up there in my top 10 of greatest foods ever. May need to put that on my restaurants menu when I get back and call it LaoMex or Mexilao pescado or something like that.
Ok off to bed so I can wake up to some noodle soup to start my day, mmmmmm ..........

5 comments:

Dara said...

The latest issue of Saveur magazine has a whole article on Lao cuisine and great recipes. If I see another copy, I'll pick one up for you. Also, a great foodwriter who blogs just posted about her recent experience in Laos so I can send you that link too. Are you eating those dried seaweed crispy cracker thingies? I loved those. Mmmm, I'm jealous, and hungry....

SamanthaShakti said...

Rocked out tonight for Gary's 50th! Conspiring for NYE plans. Maybe something big here a the casa, or an electric test in the dessert at j-tree. Any thoughts? I am told that you will do as you are directed....

B Bear

PS - magical mystery tour awaits in the mystery of j-tree.

miguel said...

Jeffre
Just the thought of some fricaseed mole has my taste buds dancing!!!mmmmmm.There's really nothing like grilled rat with a bure banc sauce....delicious!!! Thanks so much for giving me a ring the other night-it was great to hear your voice.
Some business-couldn't get oceanside into escrow and I need the last four of your Soc Sec # so I can file an old tax return for Hawaii-apparently, we filed a quarterly return for 03, but never filed a "return". NO big. No money due-just need to get it closed out and I can do that with your last four.
Stay safe my brother, thanks for the gastronomic review....utterly amazing. /Miguel

Chas Moore said...

Jefe-
Wow how responsive of you. I can't wait to do some cooking with you when you get back. Personally I'd eat possum before worms--although I've never eaten a marsupial I'd imagine it would taste a lot like squirrel or nutria not really good but not bad either. The wood chunks in the soup sound interesting, seems like there are few plant species that cause a simmiliar reaction.
Whoever is running the food at Soup next year should have you cook a Laoiation Feast!
peace,
Chas

Geo said...

Hey Jeff,

Geo here; just wanted to drop you a quick note and tell you how inspirational your blog from Laos has been!

Very cool hearing your words and seeing your pixels from half way around the world appear on my computer screen, above my cup of coffee on some mornings (as I pry an eye or two open ;^). Can definitely read through your posts, as time transpires, you dropping into your Jefe groove over there!

Time does feel like it stands still, as it slips gracefully around you, in that part of the world. Reminds me of a journey from Bali, north through Singapore, Malaysia, the Thai islands, Bangkok, Chaing Mai, Chaing Rai, I took in the summer of '92 - crazy and beautiful - and now would like to go back, and beyond, after reading your blog.

So - good on ya, bro; great to see you suss your life, and the world, out. Boiling the simple pleasures down to a tasty bowl of contemplative Laotion noodles for breakfast; we should all be so inclined, and lucky!

Haven't talked to you for years but I recognize that smile on your blog!

Peace, and safe travels!

Hugs,
Geo