My Birthday on the Plain of Jars

Today is my birthday and I got to celebrate it on the Plain of Jars, Phonesavanh, Laos,
The Plain of Jars is this amazing 2-3000 year old archeological site in North eastern Laos. It is a place I have wanted to get to for many years.
I am feeling so blessed today to be here.
The journey here was certainly not easy. The roads are a lot worse than I thought they would be in this part of Laos.
But aside from too many twists and turns, an aching back, sore butt, wind-whipped skin, I feel great to be alive and completing one more turn around the sun.

Reflecting today, I realise I have made some progress in the clarity that I seek in myself as a person, father, friend, son, boss, brother and world citizen.
Being solo on this trip- without any of my comforts of home- friends, family, cat, house- I get to really check in with Jeff. I realized that, heh, I like me.I am alright. I am a good person who really gives a shit about things. I am a great ambassador for us Americans out in the world. Sure, I make my share of mistakes and I am certainly one who benefit from a bit of humility but overall I think my contribution to this planet and the people that surround me is really positive.
I feel so blessed with what the gods and goddesses have offered me in this life. A life so full of abundance.
I am so grateful for the amazing friends and family I have in my life.
I hope to continue on the journey of life- making those who touch me that I, too, touch in a special way.
I really want to focus my life on making the world a better place. Being here in such an undeveloped country really makes you understand what we have and what others don't have.
Overall, I feel good about where I am and where I am going in my life and those that surround me are the juice that makes me who I am.
I truly give thanks for the gifts that I have and if you are reading this right now you are one of my greatest gifts.
Love to all,
Sabai dee
Jeff

Ok off to drink some lau lau with some Aussie friends.

Some random photos

One of the cutest kids ever at his mothers street side restaurant

Hmoung hill tribe women
Tasty, tasty bar be que available everywhere














Prayers are a daily part of most peoples routine.
Been making it a part of mine too.

What they say about Laos.

A beautiful saying I have read about Laos is:

The Vietnamese plant the rice
The Cambodians watch the rice grow
The Laotians listen to it grow

I think I am discovering that about Lao. The people here are extremely soft, gentle, quiet and friendly and with a bow will make sure you are alright.
I am still in Luang Prabang as I have once again found a place very difficult to leave.

The town is set on a peninusula between 2 rivers the Mekong and the Kham. Essentially a jungle setting along river banks.
The vibe here is uber-laid back with great food and great surrounding areas.
The morning markets are a feast to your senses selling everything from fish and chicken to roasted rats and water buffalo bile. Some things are hard to imagine what the hell they do with it but who am I but a farang(foreigner) trying to grasp another culture. I am trying to remain open to trying things I would normally not try and the water buffalo jerkey was actually quite tasty.

One of the unique features of Luang Prabang is the town closes up by midnight and you are expected to be in your place that you are registered ie. your guesthouse by midnight. Basically, they have a curfew for everyone. In some ways, I am OK with that as it keeps the quietness of the town intact and reduces the party atmosphere that would be happening considering that tall beers cost 1 dollar and cocktails are 2 dollars so drinking is really cheap here.


Went out of town to this fabulous waterfall about 36 km away.
It was awesome and in the areas that you could go swimming to cooling water washed away all the road grime I have been acuumulating.

Took an all day Cooking School class given by a highly respected restaurant.
We first went to the market and learned alot about the offerings available there.
We then headed to the cooking school set up in a garden along the riverside.
We cooked 5 dishes along with sticky rice and it was fabulous. I will have a dinner party when I get back and make these dishes. Really great stuff!!
I will be leaving LP in a few days and begin heading northeast towards the Plain of Jars- this amazing ancient plateau that has these huge stone containers strewn around for reasons lost in time. It is an area that was hard hit by the secret war America waged against the Laotians unbeknownst to the American people. It's a place that has facinated me for many years.
More to come.
Thanks for checking out my blog and for the great comments. Keep em coming.

Blessings,
Jeff

Wow Lao!

After a bit of delay in finally getting to Laos (pronounced Lao here) I have finally arrived and haved dropped back at least 30 years from where Thailand is and maybe a whole millennium as well.
Talk about laid back. This place may define it.
I am currently in Luang Probang the fabulous Northern Lao city along the Mekong River. Formerly a French colonial town, it is beautiful beyond description. Really unlike any place I have been before. It's like the French Quarter in New Orleans meets Hanoi with less traffic and more coconut trees. Hard to describe really.
Walking the streets at night or at dawn is a surreal experience.
Today I was awoken by the sounds of roosters crowing. I jumped out of the bed of my guest house so that I could see the town as it awakens in the early light and fog.
I knew there was the daily ritual of monks walking thru the town and people giving their alms to them. What I didn't know was where it happened and as it turns out it happened right down the street from where I was staying. Pretty convenient in my book.
I bought some banana's and cookies from this little old lady (who actually overcharged me- her karma will pay some day- overcharging for monk alms, sheesh!) and placed them in the monks alms bowls.
Another great way to start a day.
I will be off the bike for a few days to break things up and stay in this town.
Once I have my fill of Luang Prabang I will be heading north into the Northern states of Laos.
Since I was a week delayed in getting here, I was hoping to meet up with my friends Laura and Michael. As it turns out we got to see each other for a total of 5 minutes at the airport as they were heading to Hanoi and I was arriving from Thailand. It was short but sweet. They seem to be having a great time and are on their way for more adventure in Viet Nam. Go L and M!
Ok, I need to go chill out with a Beerlao as it's getting warm and I need to relax after a big day walking the streets of Luang Prabang.

Life on the Road

Tha Ton Thailand

Today I rode about 230 Kms which is about the most I will probably do in any one day. I left at 9 am and got to my destination around 4 pm with a stop for lunch and site seeing at these amazing caves near Chiang Doa.

There is a road mantra that I am living by:

They drive opposite here in Thailand
Slow down into the turn accelerate out of the turn
Stay far left of the center (politically as well as the road)
Keep the rubber part down.

Unlike driving in Viet Nam or India where it is a video game and you are the target, the Thai drivers are a bit better although sometimes I feel as though the center line is only for esthetics. They don't seem to notice which side of the road they are on until there is an oncoming vehicle ( Like ME!) and then they will slowly move over to their lane.
At first I was concerned but now that is just how it is and I put that into my way of driving- giving lots of space and being ever vigilant.

I think driving will be easier in Laos as there are so few cars but the way people drive in Asia is quite something to behold.

So far my only mishap was when I went to avoid a snake crossing the road and in slamming on my brakes I laid the bike on it's side. No damage to me the bike or the snake.
Also the answer to why did the chicken cross the road? It was to mess with the motorcyclists.
I learned something from all the years driving to Burningman. Like they say in the survival guide between Reno and Gerlach, if you see a rabbit crossing the road aim for it!
Chickens crossing the road I am aiming for you.......( I would love the video if I ever do hit one)
More miles ahead....
Send me your comments, I appreciate them.

J

Obama is already working his magic.

Last night in Pai at my final gig in town, I was billed as the headliner. "Jeffrey from San Francisco" introduced as Je Flea. Loved it. Anyway had a packed house with lots of Thais, Euros, and a couple of Americans. I was wearing my Obama T-shirt and periodically I would stand up and toast to Obama. Everyone in the place raised their glasses and yelled "Obama!".
I was blown away and did it every couple of tunes much to the delight of everyone.
Obama is grabbing the worlds attention in a very powerful and positive way.

Today as I left Pai midway to Tha Ton I was stopped at a police roadblock (that I heard could be a bit tricky). The Thai cop comes up to me and the bike, askes for my passport, which I do not have beacuse I had to leave it with the motorcycle rental place. I hand him my international drivers license and a photo copy of my passport. He motions to move over to this holding area. SHIT! So I move me and the bike there and he starts asking me questions of what is in my bags, where have I been, where am I going. A minute later the head cop comes over to see what is going on. He see's my Obama sticker on my guitar case. He mentions the word Obama and I say Obama and give a thumbs up amd a big smile. He smiles back at me and says something in Thai to the other cop who then says that I can leave, tips his cap and off I go.

Obama magic is already happening!!

A Truly Perfect Day

Sunday. A Perfect Day.

I woke at dawn because of a once a year celebration in Mae Hong Son.

One thousand Buddhist monks all parading down a 3 week closed off section of downtown with hundreds of worshippers placing alms in their bowls.
A 1000 monks!


Its hard to not have a great day when you start off with a 1000 monks giving you prayers. Breakfast of Champions!

Next event in my amazing day:

I head off on a wild goose chase to visit a Long Neck Karen Hill Tribe using a map that was written in Thai using ancient measuring techniques long lost in our generation. In other words, the map didn't work. But I trusted.
I followed my instincts and at every crossroad or T intersection I would go with what seemed right. Finally, after an hour or so and I am at this point big time lost and at another T I see this small Thai lady squatting on the side of the road and she points to her neck and points to go up this rutted dirt path. I interpreted that she meant to see the people with the Long necks go that way. On the other hand, she could have meant if you go that way you will break you neck. Both seem plausible.
Well me being me and determined to see the long neck Karen village off I went dirt biking with all my gear and sure enough I finally made it to the Karen village. Thank you squatting lady.
Wow! A whole village of long neck women who choose to place these metal rings around their necks starting as young girls and continue adding to them as they grow older.



Lots of conjecture as to why they originally did this but theories range from preventing tigers from carryinbg them off to making them less attractive to other tribes men to it simply being a stylie thing to do. Your guess is as good as mine.

Next event. I got to take that ride of 1864 turns back towards Pai where I would spend the night before the final push to the Golden Triangle.
I get into Pai and set up with the top Thai massuse for an hour and a half full on real deal Thai massage. I didn't know my body could get into those shapes and didn't know the sound of my kneecaps cracking. It felt great!

Head into town and run into a couple of musicians who I knew and wham! get offered 2 more gigs on Monday. Ok. I will stay till Tuesday and then I am out of here. (he says feebly) No really. Laos is calling and it's hard to get good opium here ;^)

So recap on my perfect day:

1000 monks morning into Karen Long Neck village into the 1864 turn higway into Pai into Thai Massage from the master into getting 2 gigs into a late night jam session.
I don't know if life could be much better. Well maybe a little lovin' but other than that.

Sending blessings.

Hana Schmana. Now THIS road has some curves!

Yesterday I took one of the most beautiful roads I have ever been on.
The road from Pai to Mae Hong Son was truly breath taking. One of those WOW events where every turn was a different mindblowing view and you just had to say WOW.
So, the famous Hana highway (also one of my favorites) has something like 500 turns from Haiku to Hana. Dig this. The road from Pai to Mae Hong Son has 1864 turns!!!Thats right 1864. And I made all of them! ;^) THere is even a certificate they issue you here in MHS that says you drove the road compeleting all 1864 turns.
It was really a blast being on a bike doing the road although at the end of the day I was beat.

The terrain here in North Eastern Thailand is really amazing. Limestone mountains with jagged peaks covered in jungle foliage. From some of the peaks that the road hits you can see the whole mountain range to Burma. Now that is a whole different world that will have to wait for another trip.

I was truly feeling blessed to be able to be here and witness this. To have the resources to experience this does not pass by me lightly. I have been graced with good fortune and I give my thanks everyday.

A good mantra to live by...........

I was tooling through a small road past these beautiful golden rice fields with small thatched huts interspersed. Water buffalo grazing, gorgeous mountains in the distance.
I was thinking how all of this is so far from the problems facing much of the western world.
Bank closings, housing forclosures, stock market dives, etc. and the wars being raged around the world.
I thought how out in these rice fields the people who were working them have no clue to what it is that is on peoples minds and those troubles just don't seem to exist here. If the worlds economic situation failed completely would they even care?

What is important to these people is a good rice harvest, healthy children, a working water buffalo, maybe a motorbike to get around and not much else. They seem really happy and are always free with a wave and a smile.
We have so much in America. SO many things to keep us happy and the threat of losing any of that keeps us up at night.
Regardless of how much money we all make it is more than 95 per cent of the worlds population so our worries seem a bit pointless. We can make good reasons why our problems as so important. I think we are making our problems more than they really are.
A simpler way of life is very compelling.
Right now I have a small pack, a guitar, and not much else. I seem to have all I need.
A reorientation of priorities is in order when I get back home.
Simplify, simplifly, simplify.
That sounds like a good mantra...........

Bye to Pai? It's got me in her grasp.

Pai Thailand.

I was warned. You get there and can't leave.
Well I was thinking how could that be. I have an objective. I have a direction I am heading. I have places to go and people to see. Right?

Last night I was offered and played a gig at the Sanctuary, one of the best bars in town and the key musician in town Noong played along and offered me a gig in his band. Pay, food, drinks and lodging if we go out of town to play.
How cool is that?

What to do? What to do?

I really want to go to Laos as that is my ultimate destination so I am torn right now with what is the best decision.
There is a 3 day holiday for the death of the kings sister so I have time to think about this.
Today I am heading to the Burmese border town called Mae Hong Son where I can weigh my options.
I could really see staying in Pai for a long time. Not my original plan..........

Off on the road and I am sure the answer will come to me.

What Wat?

The day before heading out to the Golden Triangle I decided it would be a good idea to tryout my motorcycle nearby Chiang Mai. Test the waters as it were. SO I took a journey to the second highest mountain in Thailand Doi Suket and went to the most sacred Wat in N Thailand.
While I was there the main monk was delivering blessings and he motioned for me to come forward. He splashed me with holy water and tied a sacred string to my wrist which will stay in place until it falls off by itself.
Well having that blessing makes me feel like I have the Buddah on my side now so my many kilometers ahead should go smoothly.

Today I left Chiang Mai and made my way to Pai a beautiful town surrounded by mountains along the banks of the Pai River. Love it here. Lots of musicians, live music venues groovey vibe.

I was warned that this place may be hard to leave.........
I can see why.

Riding the bike is great. Lots of freedom to go where I want. The main problem I see is my butt gets real sore after about 4 hours in the saddle. So I just may limit my time on the bike to 4 hours per day and see where that takes me.

Visited my first Hill Tribe who were Hmuong people. Very interesting and a beautiful look about them. Visited there opium gardens but did not procur any yet.
More to come.

Feeling good and excited about everyday and where I will end up.

Obama fever is worldwide. Eveyone is hoping for great change from us in America.

Peace,
Jeff

Chiang Mai. Lover of all things Obama

Currently in Chiang Mai Thailand, gateway to the Golden Triangle where I will be heading off tomorrow morning. I will be looking for hill tribes, hot springs, jungles and supposedly good opium.

Got here a couple of days ago and what a great town this is. Lots of activity, great food and way mellower than Bangkok.

Yesterday was as perfect a day as I can remember.

Woke up around 7:30 did 30 minutes of Pilates which helped undo all the kinks from flying 25 hours.

Had breakfast of cappucino and awesome fresh fruit plate .
Went for a long walk thru the old city visiting some beautiful wats (temples) where I said prayers for family, friends and country while monks were chanting. beautiful, surreal, awesome!

Had lunch of two of my favorite dishes on the planet: som tum (green papaya salad and pad thai)
Life is good if I get a som tum every day and I plan on that.

Headed off for a 2 1/2 hour massage with hot herbal compresses(operative word here is Hot as they were fucking hot compresses applied to my whole body and nether regions) and fully got rid of all my travel kinks as well as any bugs that may be invading my body. Nothing could have withstood the heat! It was actually really good.
Made my way to the Sunday market which apparently everyone else in Chiang Mai also does as the crowds were in full force. People selling everthing imaginable, foods to die for and even a male and female beauty contest on a big stage.
Dinner of great street food and of course another som tum, which I failed to tell the som tum maker to use a small amount of chili's. I was burning for quite some time and remembered the dish again this morning if you catch my drift. Ah, spicy thai food. Love it!

Ended the day in the main gate area which is in great spendor with the up coming Lok holiday in two days. They float blessings down the river and in hot air devices to clear your karma during this festival. I will be floating one for myself and for America in hopes that our collective karma will be cleaned up a bit post-Bush.

Speaking of which, I have been wearing and Obama 08 t-shirt and there is great response from everyone who see's it. It seems again like the days of Clinton where America had a great reputation in the eyes of the world (love that song). I haven't felt proud to be an American in a long time and I am truly proud about what we did last Tuesday. The whole world was watching and we didn't let them down. Old Thai men give me a thumbs up when I walk by and say
Oba Mah' emphasis on the Ma. It's cute. Europeans greet me with "good job on the election".
It feels like old times internationally speaking and I am so happy for that.

We, us Americans, need to keep the energy up and make sure that our dear elected Barack indeed holds true the the changes that we have elected him to undertake. We all need to keep doing what we need to help him in this quest. Let's not let the world down. He needs our sustained presence and our collective energy.

OK over and out. Next stop Golden Triangle and the hill tribes. Have no idea what the internet scene will be but I will do my best.
Thanks to all those who have posted back to me. Please keep me in your loop and respond here on the blog. I appreciate your words.

Blessings,
Jeff

The Loooooong Commute

Dateline: Singapore International Airport
Time: 2am
Body Condition: Feeling the 17 hour flight so far.
Objective: Get some sleep during the 7 hour layover before boarding again for the flight to Bangkok where I will then catch another flight to Chiang Mai Thailand. The endless commute.
Mood: Groovy-delirius-ecxcited

Watched 4 movies on the flight over:
Iron Man - kinda cool- extremely unrealistic
Journey to the Center of the Earth- time waste but good visuals
Wall-E - Cute slightly touching
Dark Knight- Great acting long movie should have been called Long Knight

Ok time to get some rest unfortunately the transit hotel is full so have to sleep on the chairs in the airport. Been there enough times to know how to do that comfortably.
Next post: Chiang Mai

Cheers,
J

A solo Motorcycle tour of Laos

Off I go this Thursday for one of my dream trips realized.....

A solo motorcycle tour of Laos with a bit of N Thailand just cuz it's so cool.

Why solo?  Where else can you fully realize taking the exact turn on a road you want, spend the exact right amount of time in a special place, and make yourself fully realize who you are with no reliance on anyone but yourself.  Going off to such a peaceful country like Laos where I fully expect to drop down several levels and really get a taste of this Buddhist nation

How do you cross all the I's and dot all the T's before leaving on such a big adventure?

Guide book suggestions  really help.

So with my bare minimums of:

1. Small backpack with clothes, meds, etc

2. Guitar with small battery amp (mini-Marshall stack)

3. Said guide books

4. Necessary documents

5. Motorcycle Helmet

And that is all I am taking.  The rest shall we say, will show itself, the road will show me how to go, the weather will dictate the speed at which I travel, and my heart will show me how best to connect with the people I will meet.

I look forward to posting to this blog along the way.  I have no idea of the availability of internet connections but I will do my best to keep you all current to my whereabouts.

And now off to finish packing and getting my s*#t together.

Sawadee Ka

Jeff